The Whitsundays - Reef Sleep & Long Island
My week in the Whitsundays has been a week of contrasts – contrasts in accommodation, tour operators, weather, people….
I arrived in Airlie Beach last Monday and am leaving tomorrow for Cairns. My 3 days at Nomad’s gave me an interesting glimpse into the lower end of the backpacker’s food chain, whilst my tour experiences – Camira Sailing and ReefSleep - both provided a sharp contrast in how to (and not to) run a major tourist activity. The people on the Camira tour couldn’t do enough for us and nothing seemed to be too much trouble for them, whilst the tour guide on ReefSleep seemed more concerned with schedules and timetables than making us feel welcome and comfortable.
The weather in The Whitsundays has also been as unpredictable as Melbourne’s if a tad warmer – but not much. I’m so glad I brought my coat! I was sorely tempted to ditch it in Sydney. Of the 7 days I have been here, it has rained every day except the day we were on the pontoon (thank God!). Fortunately the sun has occasionally come out. The wind is another meteorological factor I hadn’t counted on. It’s often been blowing a gale.
Airlie Beach was a pleasant surprise – I had expected a grungy, run down and garish town full of backpackers’ hostels and bogan bars (which indeed it is), but was also pleasantly surprised to find a wonderful foreshore full of funky bars, high end restaurants and delightful shops. The food here is surprisingly good and no more expensive than in Melbourne or Sydney. I even managed to find a great book shop on the foreshore where I stocked up on some more holiday reading. A serendipitous find was Cha’Ha near the Port of Airlie, a delightful “Moroccan-inspired” restaurant which screens old Hollywood classics. I also had a spectacular lunch at La Tabella, a wonderful Italian restaurant recommended to me by Beck, who runs Wisdom, where I had the best pancake breakfast on the foreshore on my last day at Airlie Beach. La Tabella provided me with one of the best wines I have ever had – an Italian Montepulciano. Their Lamb Strap back salad wasn’t bad either! The service here, as it has been everywhere else on Airlie Beach was first class.
A note here about Queenslanders! They are sooooo nice! It seems the further north you travel in Australia, the nicer people are. The only customer service staff I have met here who was less than friendly was a Tasmanian! Everyone else has been an absolute delight.
The final day of my organized tour is spent at BreakFree Long Island. There are very few guests staying here although one would think it would be peak period – it is the height of winter in Melbourne and many Melburnians take their holidays at this time of year. At one time, resorts such as this one were extremely popular. The resort reminds me of an ageing movie star who has lost her fan base. The resort was built in the 60s (?) and although attempts have been made to upgrade the rooms, there are still remnants of the basic style of accommodation it must have once been. It suits me that there are few people around. After the hordes of noisy backpackers at Airlie Beach, and all the day guests on the pontoon and the ferries, it is a joy to be surrounded by peace and quiet again. The only sounds I hear are the sounds of the waves, the rain and soft jazz emanating from my radio. And even though my room is a budget one, I have an excellent view of the beach. Heaven! It is also a pleasure to have access to a bar and a restaurant again – to eat and drink and sleep whenever I want. I really couldn’t ask for anything better. This is what I have missed so much –